FAQ's and Facts
Auto Detailing Facts - Clay
Auto Detailing Facts - Exterior
Auto Detailing Facts - Interior
Auto Detailing Facts - Sealant
Auto Detailing Facts - Wash
Braking Facts.
Bubbles Facts
CAR WASH FACTS
Flitz Product Q & A
Paint Chip Repair
Paint Damage & Repair
Paintless Dent Removal (PDR)
Auto Detailing Facts - Clay

What is claying?
Claying is an awesome way to remove particles that adhere to your vehicle. We have had great success in removing chemical damage, tar, road grime, over spray and adhesive materials. We even used it on vehicle that had advertising wraps to remove the left behind glues, GREAT SERVICE.
What are the benefits of claying?
Claying removes overspray and many other contaminants that can cause your finish to appear dull and rough. Each day your vehicle is exposed to many airborne contaminants such as:

-Tree sap mist
-Paint overspray
-Industrial fallout
-Hard water deposits
-Diesel fuel exhausts
-Rubber particles from other cars
-Insect droppings
-Bug splatter
-And much more!
How do you protect your new finish?
Claying removes everything from the surface of your vehicle. Including any protectants from previous applications.The new smooth surface you created while claying your vehicle is now set to be coated with your favorite sealant or wax to protect your finish.
How do you clay your car?
Start by making sure you have a high quality lubricant or a quick detailing spray. Work one section of the vehicle at a time, in a bout a two square foot area. Spray the surface with the lubricating spray. Next, manipulate the clay bar to a shape that is comfortable to grasp in your hand. Work the surface, rubbing in a back and forth motion. The clay should feel as though it is grabbing at the surface. This is an indicator that the clay is doing the job properly. When the clay glides fluidly across the area, the surface is clean. Finish by wiping off any residue with a lint free cloth.
How do you care for your clay?
Each clay bar will clean up to three cars. It is important to rememer that if you drop a clay bar on the ground to discontinue use. This can scratch the surface of your paint. Also pay close attention to the surface of the clay itself. If you should see any large particles that may scratch your finish, shave these portions off and continue. If clay is clean and can be reused, spray it clean with clay lube to keep it moist and store it in a plastic bag. For reuse knead the clay to bring up a fresh surface.
Why clay?
Our cars are attacked by various contaminants every day. Bug residues, highway grime, dust, pollution, paints, sprinkler systems, they can all be found attached to your finish. Simply washing your car with a little extra elbow grease seems to do the job just fine...Right? WRONG! Tiny particles that can not be removed with the simple "soap and water method" are left behind. These particles, if left alone, can cause real damage like rust.The easiest (and least expensive) way to remove these particles and save your paint, is claying. Nothing pulls contaminants out of your paint like clay!

First, you should check to be sure your finish is a candidate for claying. One way to tell this is the "bag test."  After washing and drying your car thoroughly, take a plastic sandwich bag and place it over your hand (like a glove). Slowly stroke your painted surface. If you feel some grit there (a little bumpy, sandy, or rough texture) your paint should be clayed. Clay bars absorb the contaminants and pull them up and safely away from your paint.
How do you  prepare the surface of your paint to be treated?
Surface preparation is used to remove any particles that may be embedded into the painted surface.
There are three main types of cleaners that may be used in this process:

Liquid Cleaners are chemical cleaners. These are shown to be safer for most paint surfaces and effectively remove contaminants such as wax, stains, oxidation, tar and bug spattering.

Compounds come in a paste form and are used on the more aggresive type situations or problems. Compounds are abrasive cleaners that come in three grades: Polishing compounds are the least aggresive. Followed by medium and heavy cut.

Clay bars are used for pulling contaminants and overspray off the paint. Spray lubricant must ALWAYS be used with clay bars to reduce friction. It is also important that you inspect your clay bar frequently for any particles that may stick in its surface. If any are found, fold to a new section. If the clay bar is EVER dropped, discard and start with a new bar so you will not risk scratching the paint with any contaminants that may have been lifted from the ground. One advantage of claying is that it can be done in a relatively short amount of time.
Auto Detailing Facts - Exterior

How do you clean the exterior of your vehicle?
When washing your vehicle, the paint should be cool and the vehicle in a shaded area. Always use a large bucket and clean washing mitt. Begin by rinsing the car top to bottom to dislodge any large contaminants that may later be picked up by the washing mitt. Always use the least amount of shampooing solution necessary. Now, suds the car from top to bottom, rinsing the mitt frequently.  Always wash the vehicle one section at a time rinsing often. This will prevent soap drying on the paint. To rinse, remove your hose nozzle and gently and thoroughly rinse your car from top to bottom. Removing the nozzle and rinsing with the open hose, a sheeting of the water will actually aid in drying the vehicle. Now use your leaf blower to assist in drying of the vehicle. Drying time will be cut along with the added ability to dry hard to reach areas such as window channels, headlight rims, and grill areas.  This also prevents excess wiping that could cause removal of wax. Finish up  by drying damp areas with a 100% cotton or microfiber towel. Gently dry by moving in back and forth straight strokes. Dry in the same direction as wind flows over car. Finally, inspect the entire paint surface for impurities that need special attention.
How do you clean your windows?
Start cleaning with the windshield and then back window. Door window glass will be done last. First, Lower glass half down so that the top half of the glass can be cleaned inside and out. Next, raise window to clean lower half of all door glass. Touch up the exterior rubber and vinyl with an exterior rubber and trim care product.
How do you clean your tires and wheels?
Never wash a vehicle that is warm from just being driven. Wash your vehicle in a shaded area. Remember, You will need a separate bucket than the one you will use for the cleaning of your car exterior. This will prevent cross-contamination from brake dust and small stones that could scratch the paint. Always use the least aggressive method first. For most wheels, chrome or clear coat, start with a quality shampoo which is usually sufficient and one of the least aggressive methods. Spray cleaners seem to work best on dry wheels. Be sure to get close to the wheels so that over spray will not reach the vehicle’s painted surfaces. Whether your wheels are clear coated or not, will define which products should be used. Check if your wheels are clear coated by puting a small amount of Mag & Aluminum cleaner on a soft cloth. Use this to rub a small section of the wheel for a few seconds. If the cloth shows black residue, you do not have clear coated wheels. If the cloth has no black residue, your wheels are clear coated. After shampooing or spraying, agitate the surface with a soft bristle brush which will loosen stubborn dirt and grime. Thoroughly rinse. Use plastic or wood –handle brushes to prevent scratching. Scrub tires with car washing solution. Clear coat wheels should also have carnauba wax applied, to prevent build-up of brake dust etc. It’s best to wait until final detail before applying tire protectant and preservative
How do you maintain the finish?
After all the work you've done, it is essential to protect your beautiful finish. Washing your car atleast once (even twice) a week will minimize the opportunity of contaminants to bond to your paint's finish. Following your wash an instant detailer will help to keep the waxed finish.
Also remember to promptly remove any tree sap, bird droppings, etc. from your car. Keeping the instant detailer and a few clean towels in your car is great for these types of unpredictable, but likely, contaminants.

Auto Detailing Facts - Interior

How do you care for your headliner?
Be sure to test the fabric for color fastness. If you have a vinyl headliner, glass cleaner sprayed lightly on a flannel towel can be used to lightly buff the headliner to prevent it from becoming too saturated which may damage the glue holding the liner.
How do you clean the interior of your car?
Professionals use an air compressor in order to blow away debris caught in nooks and crannies of the engine compartment, but a leaf blower works great. Before you begin, cover all major electrical connections with plastic wrap or baggies. Next, wet the top of the hood, fenders, and grill area so that any cleaning products reaching this area will be rinsed away and not damage painted surfaces. Spray the entire engine with engine cleaner/degreaser. Citrus-based cleaners seem to be less harsh on aluminum valve covers and components. They also do not leave the white chalky deposits that pertoleum-based cleaners tend to leave on plastic. A short warming of the engine also helps to accelerate the cleaning action of most cleaners. A soft two to three inch fiber brush works great to loosen heavily soiled areas. No cleaning solution should be left on the engine over a maximum of five minutes. Keep your hose nozzle approximately five feet from the engine compartment and rinse thoroughly. Don't forget to wash cleaning solution from surrounding areas such as windshield, hood, fenders, and grill area to prevent damage to painted surfaces. Remove all plastic wrap or baggies from the engine component areas. UV protection to all rubber hoses, vinyl, plastic, and mouldings. Directly to small cloth.
How do you care for the interior of your vehicle?
It is first important to note that you should always read and follow the manufacturer's recommendations and instructions. Also it is advised to clean the interior before the exterior to prevent any contamination. Floor mats should be removed and a thorough vacuum of the interior will be first step. Using vacuum attachments with a soft bristled head with prevent scratching of vinyl or painted dash surfaces that are likely to occur with plastic attachments. Use a shop vac or a house vac. Do not forget to vacuum the rear deck area above the back seat. Move the seats out of their normal position so that the entire carpet can be vacuumed and shampooed. Lightly apply shampoo. Rug brushes should be used with the carpet cleaner to loosen dirt particles. Vacuuming is then done to lift and remove any particles left behind. Hang mats to dry. Coat rubber floor mats with UV protectant dressing.
How do you care for your leather seats?
Never use products made for vinyl on your leather interior. Cleaning should be done when leather is warm  so the pores of the leather are open and have better absorbing rate. A hair dryer can be used on low setting to warm the seats prior to cleaning and conditioning. Wipe the seats prior to applying cleaner to remove any contaminants and prepare leather for the cleaning and conditioning process. Apply leather cleaner directly to a clean 100% cotton or flannel towel. Allow cleaner to be absorbed into the leather for a few minutes. Now gently buff with a soft cotton or flannel towel. Rinse with several moist towels making sure to remove all leather cleaner. Any leather dash, door, or kick panels should also be cleaned at this time. The next step is to protect your leather. Apply leather conditioner to a clean dry cloth. Allow several minutes for the conditioner to absorb into the leather. After approximately 15 minutes buff with a clean towel.
How do you care for your vinyl and velour seats?
First vacuum your seats to remove loose dirt and other particles. After pretesting all cleaning agents in a small inconspicuous area, apply cleaner to  your seats. Use a flag brush on your vinyl, velour, and upholstery to agitate the surface. Gently work in mild upholstery cleaner and allow to soak in for a few minutes.
After cleaning vinyl seats it is important to use a product with UV screening ingredients. Spray cloth with cleaning agent. Test product. Apply with soft cloth. Allow to work into and absorb oils, buff off excess. Fold towel over hand and spray protectant on one side. Keep dry side up to keep protectant away from winshield and other glass as you apply. Don't forget the interior, such as back of seats, kick panels, and door panels. Interior should be done twice a year. Treat dash more often since they receive more exposure to UV rays daily. Prevents cracking and deterioration of vinyl seats.
How do you clean your interior glass?
A microfiber towel should be used to clean your interior glass. Spray the glass cleaner directly onto the towel to prevent overspray.
Also, remember to dust air conditioning vents and crevices of your radio with a cotton swab or 6 " vent brush.

Auto Detailing Facts - Sealant

Why seal and glaze your vehicle?
Sealants and glazes will enhance the painted surfaces by smoothing out roughness in the surface. They also refresh paint with oils that are lost during oxidation caused by UV damage.
How do you seal or glaze your vehicle?
It is important to use a quality 100% cotton terry applicator when applying sealant or glaze. You will need to use at least two applicators for this job. This helps to prevent sealer or glaze from drying on the apllicator surface which may cause scratches from hardening of residue. Remember NEVER to apply the product directly to the painted surface. Applying the product to the applicator itself, fold the applicator and blot to evenly distribute. This allows for even application to the surface. working small sections at a time is best. Let sealant and glaze dry. Follow with buffing with a clean 100% cotton or microfiber towel. Immediately follow this product with quality wax or polish.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of using polymer based products?
Polymer products are known for their substantial durability and ease of use.

The cost of these products tends to be slightly higher. Polymers are also recommended to be removed once a year and reapplied. The main disadvantage here is the limitation on expansion and contration which may cause it to crack.

These products are typically applied by placing the polymer directly on an applicator, blotting together, and then appling to the paint. Application should be to small areas at a time. Let the product dry to a slight haze, and then buff with a clean soft cloth.
What are the advantages and disadvantages of using organic waxes (Carnauba)?
Many vehicle paint manufacturers recommend carnauba wax as a primary protectant. Due to the bonding properties of organic wax, there is no restriction on expansion and contraction on the paint surface. 99% of custom and show car enthusiasts use a carnauba wax.

The main disadvantage with organic waxes is the fact that they need to be replaced more frequently.

Prior to applying organic wax be sure the vehicle is thoroughly washed and the paint has been cleaned. Apply paste wax with bare hands. When using an applicator, apply the product directly to the applicator and blot so that an even layer will be applied. Let the product dry to a slight haze and buff with a 100% terry, cotton, or microfiber towel.

Microfiber towels are virtually lint free, softer than silk, and literally attract and trap dust in the towel.

After buffing all areas, get a fresh towel and completely buff the entire car again. To remove product from all hood ornaments, decals, and other hard to reach places use a two-inch paint brush. Wrapping the metal band of the brush with electrical tape will help to prevent scratches. A nylon tooth brush also works well for this task.

Auto Detailing Facts - Wash

Why is a hand wash better for my vehicle?
Simple, a hand wash is less aggressive on the finish of the exterior and will not cause the protective layer (wax or sealant) to wear as quickly therefore extending the life of your finish.
What does regular detailing do for my automobile?
Regular care of your automobile insures its resale value. It will also allow for regular removal of road grime and filth that could cause permanent damage if not removed right away. Having your carpets regularly vacuumed removes heavy debris that can cut the fibres of your carpeting and create heavy ware marks. Your vinyl gets treated with protectants from sun or uv damage. Whether it is wax, sealant or a dressing for leather & vinyl, It places a layer down which will eventually wear off. So frequent visits to us will preserve the automobile. Food or liquids of any type can permanetly change your carpets color if not removed right away.

Braking Facts

Hawk Brake Pad Installation
1. Be sure pads are securely positioned in the caliper.
2. Flush system with fresh brake fluid.
3. Check hydraulic parts for excess wear and tear.
4. Check disc for proper thickness, parallelism, and lateral run-out.
5. Check disc for scoring or grooves over .012" depth. If either applies, resurfacing or replacement is necessary.
6. If resurfacing is not necessary, contamination from old brake pads must be removed. Sand discs with Garnet sandpaper using moderate pressure. Use soap and water to cleanse disc surface following sanding and machining. Discs should be free of oil, grease, and brake fluid.
7. Inspect calipers for freedom of movement. Lubricate where necessary.
Hawk Brake Bedding-in
1. Make 6-10 slow-downs from 30-35 mph to 5 mph, using moderate pressure without coming to a full stop.
2. Make an additional 2-3 harder stops from 40-45 mph to a complete stop.
3. After stopping remove foot from brake pedal.
4. Allow brake system to cool down for 15 minutes or longer.
5. Brake pads are now ready for regular use.
Ferodo Brake Bedding-in
1. Perform 25-30 trial brake applications, each about 4 seconds, using 50% of normal pedal pressure. This procedure can also be done along straights and through bends to quicken the process.
2. Return to pit lane. Inspect surface of pads from two wheels worked the hardest. Contact over full pad area without glazing should be observed. The pads are now ready for regular use.
Rofren Brake Pad Bedding-in
1. Slow down from 35-5 mph using moderate brake pressure. Do not come to a full stop. Gently accelerate to 45 mph.
Repeat 4-6 times.

2. Slow down from 45 mph to a full stop using more brake pressure. Do not lock brakes. Allow car to roll slightly with your foot off the brake pedal. Gently accelerate to 45 mph.
Repeat 3 times.

3. Drive a short distance allowing the brakes to cool. Park vehicle for 15-30 minutes to allow brake system to cool completely to outside temperature. While stopped, do not apply brake for long periods of time.
Brake pads are now ready for use.
How do I get rid of this squeaking?
First, check to be sure the surfaces of your rotors and pads are straight and true. If necessary , turn, or replace rotors and pads.

Next, Inspect calipers, caliper sliders, and other mounting surfaces and metal-to-metal contact areas. Lubricate all such metal-to-metal contact areas with moly grease or lube.  After which you must inspect the complete system for rotors and pads to be lined up when brakes are applied.

Apply anti-squeal  moly lube to backing plate of the pads-or use an anti-squeal shim between the pad and piston contact areas.

Noise can also be improved by chamfering of the leading and trailing edges of the pads.

Also, inspect suspension components to be sure they are not worn.
What is better- Slotted or Drilled Rotors?
Slotted Rotors

Cross Drilling removes more braking surface area than slotting does. In effect Cross Drilling compromises the integrity of the rotor by drilling completely through the surface. The rotor then heats up-and if it isn’t a quality blank-made from quality steel and alloy-it will crack.

SP Performance creates application-specific programs for every rotor that it manufactures. This insures performance, safety, and reliability. All SP Performance rotors are custom machined by highly-skilled, factory-trained technicians, and the rotors are computer balanced after manufacturing.
Can I use racing brake pads on the street?
NO. There are two main reason why using racing brake pads on the street is not recommended.

Most importantly, You won't stop! Racing pads are engineered to operature at a CERTAIN TEMPERATURE RANGE.

Also, YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR ROTORS. Racing pads are made of a harder compound than street pads and therefor create EXCESSIVE amounts of wear on the rotors.

Are more expensive, premium-grade components really better?
Inferior replacement parts typically do not cost less than half the price of the premium parts we sell. Furthermore, When the wear and replacement times and prices of each type of component is taken into account, the true ADDITIONAL COST of premium components is probably less than 1/2 of one cent.
Are big brake kits really better?
Bigger pads and rotors primarily do one thing: They dissipate more heat than the stock brake setup. They do not necessarily stop you in shorter distances. Stopping distances are impacted by the coefficient of friction of the brake pad used and the clamping force applied by the caliper.
Premium Grade Brake Pads with higher temperature range capabilities and a higher coefficient of friction will provide the best improvement in braking performance.
What causes brake pad failure?
There are many components that may influence brake pad failure. One prevalent problem is excessive heat. Brake pad compounds are designed to operate in a specific temperature range. Heat beyond this range will cause wear.
What are signs of brake pad glazing?
Poor stopping performance, vibration, and cracks in brake pad material are signs of pad glazing.
Mounting new rotors
As excess runout can cause a vibration with even new rotors, Rotors should be installed on the vehicle and indexed with a dial indicator to minimize runout. New rotor runout is usually between .002" and .005"

Hub runout should also be checked to prevent excess runout.
Why aren't Ceramic brake pads recommended?
First of all, Ceramic Brake Pads were NEVER designed to be a performance brake pad! They typically have lower friction coefficients, and act as an insulator, which can raise rotor temperatures in cast-iron disc systems.

High-quality semi-metallic pads offer the best combination of stopping power and extended-wear of any brake pad type on the marketplace today! Premium-grade semi-metallic or hybrid pads are more effective for handling elevated temperatures and dissipating heat away from the rotors. Premium-grade, semi-metallic pads can offer LOW-DUST, NOISE-FREE Performance without sacrificing stopping power and increasing rotor temperatures!
Brake Pad Bedding-in
In absence of the bedding-in process rotor surfaces require constant regeneration of transfer film, which may not be stable for long periods of time. Use of a freshly ground rotor in absence of transfer film cause friction from cutting, plowing, or scoring the asperities on the surface of the rotor which leads to inconsistencies in breaking.
To achieve top use in any brake system it is recommended that compatible pads and rotors be used. The bed-in process ensures agreement between pad and rotor through rubbing, speed, temperature, line pressure, and inertia.

Advantages to bedding in include:

Gradual heat treatment of the rotor and eliminates thermal shock.
Volatiles and moisture from resin near the surface of the pad are eliminated.
A layer of transfer film only microns thick on the surface of the rotor creates and effective source of friction.
Bedding-in matches the surfaces geometrically, increasing contact area and friction force.
Inconsistencies of fresh rotor/pad systems due to changes in structure and properties are eliminated with the formation of a stable transfer film.
What about brakes with a "lifetime warranty" ?
All brake components are wear parts and will eventually fail with use.

Installing inferior brake components will cause not only the part in question, but also OTHER PARTS TO FAIL SOONER. Inferior parts will fail sooner than Premium grade parts.
How do you know when you need new brakes?
1. Do you hear a dragging metal noise?
2. Can you feel your brake pedal going lower then it had been?
3. Does the pedal have a vibration or any movement?
4. Front brakes can average between 30,000 and 40,000 miles.
    If you live in an area that has a lot of hills or city traveling, the
    need for brake replacement could be much sooner.
5. Rear brakes last much longer then front brakes.
    Typically twice as  long as fronts, however if you
    travel in the city or hilly areas they may also need replacement.
What guarantee can you provide?
Bubbles will provide a two year guarantee on our rotors when a complete brake job is done by our service technicians. Typically a shop will carry a low end brake pad that costs them $5.00 and you will be paying $19.99 and provide a "LIFETIME WARRANTY". OK a $5.00 pad for life? Go figure. By the time the pad needs replacemnt (which will be soon) so do the rotors, possibly the calipers and maybe additional repairs from the damage the poor quality pad has caused. Not ours.
What causes brake pad glazing?
Brake pad glazing is caused by brake pad friction material overheating. Crystallized friction material forms on the pad sufrace and the brake disc.
Operating brake pads at a temperature above the specified temperature range of the friction material or not "Bedding-in" brake pads will cause brake pad glazing.
What causes "warped rotors"?
Most warped rotors are caused by operation of the break pads outside their specified temperature range. Pad material melts and may "fuse" itself to the surface of the rotor and create "bumps" on the surface of the rotor. This causes vibration when applying brakes. Grinding is the only solution to this problem and is not recommended. In this case, new rotors would be the best fix.
What makes brakes squeak?
High frequency vibration between the rotor and the pad causes squealing. Rotor diameter, and stiffness of the disc are also factors. Metallic-Carbon pads typically produce more noise than older organic pads. Difference in pad composition, design, and stiffness of the pad can contribute to noise. Finally, environments (such as temperature and humidity) are always a factor.
What makes brake pads work?
FRICTION! There are two types of friction technology that contribute to braking systems.

ABRASIVE FRICTION- Which involves braking of molecular bonds between pad material and iron in the brake disc. Organic pads utilize this technology and tend to  have high wear and low resistance to high temperature brake fade.

ADHERENT FRICTION- Which is developed by tranfer-film, of the same compound of the pad material, being deposited on the surface of the rotor. Here molecular break in two like materials amongst themselves causes friction.

Most manufacturers now produce pads with a combination of the two types of friction.
Do Bubbles brake products meet OEM standards?
All of the braking products that we carry meet and exceed all of the original equipment manufaturers' specifications.

Bubbles Facts

How do we guarantee your satisfaction?
Gaining your confidence is part of our mission. The other is ABSOLUTE SATISFACTION! Which we provide in writing. If you are not completley satisfied with our service, you do not pay!
Can Bubbles provide the services you need?
Absolutley, Bubbles will provide top products and services and provide an absolute satisfaction guarantee in writing.
How long will my service(s) take?
For most services, we ask that you leave your vehicle with us for a full working day. This time period allows us to provide you with the top quality of service that we strive for. Services involving interior restoration and cleaning, for example, must factor in dry time. An air mover is placed in the vehicle to force dampness out of the carpets and other fabrics. The car will then be dry for the customer at pickup. Also, it is essential that we have ample time to inspect your vehicle for quality of service following our work. Any small items that may have been missed are then taken care of prior to the car leaving our shop.
OOPS! We missed a spot?
Here at Bubbles we pride ourselves on customer service and our Satisfaction Guarantee. If you are unsatisfied with your service here at Bubbles, Please let us know! We always appreciate the opportunity to rectify any mistake. Let us know and we will make it a priority to take care of the issue immediately, either by cleaning up what we missed or refunding your money, if we are unable to do so.

CAR WASH FACTS

What do professionals do differently to eliminate this damage?
Professional car washes use cleaning agents specially formulated to clean the surface of cars safely. Also, professional car wash centers can offer a range of waxes, gloss, or clear coat to protect your car. This in far less time than it would take you to do it yourself at home.
What are the environmental concerns behind washing your car at home?
Most home car washes are performed in an area such as a driveway or yard. Water from your wash runs into storm sewers. As this water is not treated at a wastewater treatment plant and flows directly into local streams, lakes, and rivers, it goes directly into the local water supply. Not only is this a potential threat to your own drinking water, but it can also harm local wildlife.
How do professional car wash centers eliminate these environmental risks?
Professional Car Wash Centers are designed with the environment in mind. They have specially built drainage systems that prevent harmful chemicals from entering the local storm sewer system. Many also filter the water they use. Not only eliminating risk of these harmful chemicals from damaging the local water supply, but conserving water is another reason to wash your car at a professional car wash center. Hundreds and even thousands of gallons of water can be conserved each year.
What is the importance of washing your car?
There are a variety of reasons that keeping your car clean is a priority. The most obvious reason being to keep your car looking new for as long as possible.Less apparent, more technical, reasons include protecting your paint and finish. Dust and salt, in winter, are abrasive and attach themselves to your paint and finish. They can scratch the finish of  your car. Bird droppings and tree sap can actually eat through your clear coat making your finish vulnerable to the environment. Cold climate can also be detrimental to your car by exposing it to harmful elements and substances.
What is the best way to wash your car?
There are two options when it comes to washing  your car. One way is washing  your car at home. The other is having it washed by a professional car wash center (such as Bubbles). Washing your care at home can be harmful to both your car and the environment, while professional car wash centers have developed methods of safe and thorough cleaning that protect the environment.
How can washing your car at home damage it?
Dish soaps and other household cleaners can strip the wax from your finish and possibly even scratch the paint.

Using towels or rags from around your home to wash and dry your car, as most people do with at home washing, has the potential of leaving particles from previous uses that make scratches in the finish.
How do you choose a professional car wash center?
There are three main types of professional car washcenters:

Self-serve - At this type of car wash you use a pressurized hose to wash your car yourself.

Touchless Automatic - Here a complete car was system automatically moves along the length of your car using pressurized nozzles and cleaning agents to wash your car.

Friction Automatic - This method is similar to the Touchless Automatic with the addition of rotating cylinders of material that rub the dirt and grime off your car.

At each of these stations you are likely to find vacuums that allow you to clean the inside of your car.

Consider the following when deciding on the type of wash you prefer:

Are extra treatments offered (i.e. wax, clear coating, or gloss treatments)?

Does the equipment appear clean and well maintained?

Are their methods and materials environmentally safe?

Is water recycled or drained properly?

Flitz Product Q & A

What Is The Difference Between The Paste (tube) And The Liquid (bottle)?
Besides consistency, the paste has the most concentration of cleaning power. The paste also has an added ingredient for longer lasting protection. This protection will keep your shine the longest.

The liquid is not as concentrated as the paste, but will give you comparable polishing results on most surfaces. The protection will not last as long as the paste, but it will last longer than most other liquids on the market today. The liquid polishes cover more area for less money, so they are the best choice for large areas like boats or RVs, and areas that you must maintain on a more regular basis, like brass rails or sinks. Many people find the liquids easier to work with because of the spread-ablility.
Can I Use Flitz With A Buffer?
Yes, both the paste and the liquid work great with a buffer. We do recommend that you use the buffer at 1000 RPM or lower. The Flitz will work fast, and you want to prevent burning of the surface.

What Types Of Surfaces Can I Use Flitz On?
The list is endless. Flitz is non-toxic, non-acidic, and non-abrasive, which makes it very safe to use as a strong, effective cleaner on just about any solid surface. This includes all metals, from your best gold and silver to the aluminum and chrome on your car or motorcycle. Other solid surfaces include Fiberglass, Acrylic, Tile, Marble, Granite, Ceramic, Corian, Plexiglas, Eisenglass, and smooth vinyl. Flitz is also great on hard laminates like Formica.
What If The Flitz Makes No Difference?
This can happen for a few reasons. The corrosion may be too heavy (like heavy green corrosion or heavy rust) and it would need to be stripped with an abrasive to get down to good metal. Flitz has no acids or abrasives. (This makes it extremely safe to use on hundreds of surfaces without damage.)

If you are trying to clean brass or copper, then you need to consider whether the piece has ever been lacquered. Most brass and many copper pieces are lacquer-coated during production because these metals are quick to tarnish. This lacquer or clear-coat finish can break down over time and the small holes and cracks that develop allow moisture and air to get through to the metal, which produces the tarnish. Flitz has no acids, so it cannot remove the lacquer. The lacquer must be removed with a stripper and then the metal is ready to polish. You should only strip the lacquer if the piece is solid brass or copper (or whatever metal it is). If the item is only plated, then a stripper will remove the plating along with the lacquer, and you will have nothing left to polish.
How Can I Tell If The Item Is Only Plated?
Using a magnet, you can tell whether an item is solid brass or copper. Brass and copper are not magnetic, so the magnet will not stick. If the magnet sticks, then there is another base metal underneath. Silver pieces usually have a stamp on them indicating whether they are silverplate or not. Solid gold usually is stamped with the karat value of the solid gold. Many times you can just make an educated guess based on the amount you paid for the item.
Can Flitz Be Used On Plated Items?
We don't recommend it on soft metals like brass, copper or gold plating. Most older silverplate is okay, but we recommend that you try to polish the piece in an inconspicuous spot to test. DO NOT use Flitz, or any polish, on any plated item unless the manufacturer specifically recommends it. Flitz is not dangerous to use on any metal, but the actual polishing is what rubs the plating off.Chrome plating is different and quite thick. Flitz is safe on Chrome.
What Can I Use On Plated Or Lacquered Surfaces?
Our FLITZ WAX is recommended on any plated items and any lacquer-coated items. This high-quality wax is designed as a natural, hard-surface protector and it is perfect for these types of delicate surfaces. It will also keep lacquer from breaking down and letting the metal tarnish underneath, saving you the trouble of stripping the piece later. (The wax even keeps less-expensive pieces looking new longer.)
What Makes Flitz Wax Better Than Others?
Our Faucet & Fixture wax and Wax Protectant is formulated with 40% Carnauba wax with Beeswax for an extremely hard shine that lasts and lasts. This high-quality wax has a UV protectant for better performance on outdoor fixtures, garden decor, and vehicles. We don't add fillers like talc which doesn't last, and leaves white streaks and dust.
What Can I Use On Brushed Stainless Steel?
Polishes or dressings for stainless steel can be difficult to use and leave the surface with funny streaks or an oily film. Flitz has a new Stainless Steel & Chrome Cleaner spray designed as a cleaner and maintenance for these surfaces. This spray has a degreaser which makes it great for appliances, grills, and car chrome surfaces which need a good cleaning, but don't get very oxidized. (If you have a stainless steel or chrome surface which is showing cloudy oxidation or surface rust, use the Flitz polish first to remove the oxidation.)

The spray is easy to use and it will leave the surface clean without any oily film to attract dust and fingerprints.
Can I Use Flitz On Plastics?
Flitz paste or Liquid Plastic Cleaner work great on most plastics. It will remove oxidation, graffiti, stains and minor scuffs from Plexiglass, Lucite, Acrylics, Vinyl windows (like in convertible roofs), and many other plastics. Some plastics are too soft or are made of various materials that Flitz does not work on. We recommend that you test the Flitz polish in a small, hidden area to be sure.
You Mention Countertops, Appliances, And Serving Pieces; Is Flitz Safe To Use On Surfaces In Contact With Food?
Yes, Flitz is completely non-toxic. It has USDA approval to use on surfaces in a food preparation area. Flitz can be safely used on serving pieces, such as silverware, without any danger. After polishing, just wash the piece in warm soapy water and dry off as usual. The Flitz will not leave any flavor or smell behind.

Can Flitz Be Used On Gun Bluing?
As long as the gun has been blued during manufacturing, or hot-blued. This type of bluing is actually made part of the metal. Flitz will clean and protect the barrel inside and out without any oily film or danger to the inside of the barrel.

If the gun has been cold-blued, then the bluing has been painted on. Flitz will treat this like graffiti and clean it off of the surface of the barrel. Check with a qualified gunsmith to be sure.
Any Tips For Polishing Aluminum?
Aluminum is a softer metal and it will release a large amount of oxidation when polishing. It's important not to overuse Flitz. Apply enough Flitz to just cover the surface of a small area, and buff with a paper towel for maximum absorbency. Then do a final buff with a soft cloth. Doing your initial buffing with a paper product will help to absorb all of that excess oxidation faster.
What About Tips For Polishing Diamond Plate?
Apply Flitz with a rag (only about one square foot at a time). Buff off with an old towel that has a thick pile (paper towels would just get torn up). BETTER YET, do your initial buff with an old piece of carpeting that has a good nap. You can staple it to a piece of 2x4 to make it easy to grip. This will allow you to polish deep into the grooves of diamond plate. Then follow with a buff with an old towel. Best Solution - use Flitz Polishing and Buffing Ball. It is an excellent choice for polishing diamond plate metals. It can be very difficult to get into all the nooks and crannies, and the that's what the Polishing Ball really "Shines!".

Is Flitz Guaranteed?
Yes, all Flitz products are satisfaction guaranteed. We want you to be satisfied with our products or we will replace the unused portion or refund the purchase price. Consumers only need to contact the place of purchase for refund or replacement. This has been the Flitz policy since we started
in 1978.
How often should Fiberglass be maintained?
Fiberglass should be maintained on a regular basis. So just how regular is regular? In order to answer that question we have to ask what kind of exposure to the elements the vehicle receives. If the vehicle is kept dry and inside a garage away from the elements, then exposure is minimal and the fiberglass can be maintained about every 6 months or so with great results. However, if the vehicle is kept out in the elements under constant exposure, then regular maintenance should be done every 3 months without fail. Without regular care and maintenance, fiberglass will begin to show signs of oxidizing in 4 to 12 months.

Choose products suitable for fiberglass, like Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer & Flitz Wax with UV Protectant. Regardless of the product you select, be sure to follow the application instructions to ensure that you get the best results and all the benefits that the product has to offer. Be sure to apply the products using the regular intervals suggested above. For larger vehicles you may decide to develop an application schedule. This will help reduce the amount of effort spent caring for the vehicle at any one time. Mentally divide the vehicle into three workable areas. In the case of a motorhome, this would be: 1) the driver side, 2) the passenger side, 3) the front and back ends, or caps.

Treat the whole vehicle to begin the process. Next month select the side of the vehicle that receives the most sun and exposure to the elements. This will be side one and will be the first side treated during each cycle. In the second month treat the area of the vehicle selected as side 2 and follow with side three one month later. In this manner your fiberglass vehicle will be cared for once every three months with a minimal amount of effort. In between regular treatments each month, you may want to check areas of the vehicle that are exposed to contaminants from the road or moisture in the air. These would be areas like lower parts of a motorhome that are close to the road. You may also want to check the front cap. On a boat these would be areas that are horizontal on the topside and vertical areas close to the water line.

Faded and Dull Fiberglass
For RVs and boats that have been oxidized and have some fading or dullness, waxes and polishes may seem to restore the shine, but often don't maintain it for more than a month or so. This is because the gelcoat surface has microscopic pits and crevices in it from oxidation. Waxes cover the surface and provide a barrier between the elements and the gelcoat surface. Waxes work well for vehicles in good condition, but not so well for older vehicles which have weathered a bit. After awhile, the wax wears off and the elements oxidize the surface of the gelcoat. This is similar to how rust occurs on steel or iron, or fading on older car paints. The result is a faded or dull appearance. You can remove the oxidation and then reapply wax.

Fiberglass Polish
Polish products are similar to waxes but they may also contain a small amount of abrasive that rubs off some of the oxidation and can restore some shine to the surface. These products work best for vehicles that have slight to moderate oxidization. Polishing compounds are a similar product which have more abrasives and can remove heavier oxidation but do not provide any protection afterwards, so you need to apply some protective coating after cleaning (preferably a wax so the process doesn't begin again).

Cleaning Faded or Oxidized Fiberglass
There really isn't any secret to cleaning moderately faded or dull fiberglass, you just need some elbow grease and something to remove the oxidation such as a polishing compound or other accepted liquid abrasive. The application varies for different products, but in general you need to rub the surface with the oxidation remover or polishing compound to remove the oxidized layer. You then let the product dry to a haze and buff it off to reveal the clean shiny surface. This may require two or three different steps depending on the product or products that are selected to do the task. The surface should then be protected with a regular application of wax or polish. For moderate oxidation, we suggest Flitz Metal Polish, Fiberglass & Paint Restorer finishing up with our Flitz Wax Protectant.

Extremes in Fiberglass Oxidation
Older fiberglass often oxidizes to an extreme. No matter what is used for polishing the surface, it still looks dull. The first question is... Is the surface truly dull and will not shine, no matter what is used... even professional products? If so, then read section #1. In some cases owners have even reported seeing small fibers at the surface. After a long conversation with experts in the field of fiberglass technology, we have a little bit of extra information that will prove helpful. For fibers at the surface... we know that you can see what looks like a fiber or strand of fiber coming to the surface. However, what we need to determine is if the fiber can actually be grabbed with tweezers and pulled away from the glass. If the answer is yes, then following section #2 will provide the steps needed to correct the situation. If the fiber will not pull away from the glass then read the section of this article marked #3. The information below is provided so that you can become familiar with the process that should take place to correct the problem. It should not be taken as instruction. There are far too many variables in the process. If you are still unsure how to proceed after reading this information, please seek professional advice or call our office.

#1.) If the fiberglass is faded and will not shine even after using professional grade products, you will need to do a wet sanding. (Professional grade products are those products found only at paint and body supply stores.) If you are not familiar with wet sanding it is suggested that you take the vehicle to a good body shop. Wet sanding or blocking takes time, patience and a lot of attention to detail. Sanding paper with grits in the 600 – 2000 or higher ranges are soaked for a 24 hour time period. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, the paper is placed on a foam block and the sanding begins. Once the sanding sequence is complete and the surface is smooth to the touch it will then need to be polished. Using a professional grade super duty polishing compound purchased from a professional automotive paint supply store and a speed buffer the surface is buffed free of scratches. Most professional polishing products suggest a 3 or 4 step sequence to obtain the best finish. Be sure to read and follow all manufacturer instructions for best results. Again, do not be afraid to take this task to a good body shop. This is not a task for the amateur or faint of heart.

#2.) If you have succeeded in pulling the fiber away from the gelcoat then you have an erosion problem. Though uncommon, it does happen. Most of the time it occurs on very old vehicles. The correction for the problem is a choice of two things. First, you can take the vehicle to a body shop and have them paint the surface after a thorough preparation. Or, you may choose to have the surface re-gelcoated. This process takes about the same amount of time as painting does and is about the same in price. The product recommended to us for the task is called PRESTEC, manufactured by Simtec Coatings. A good paint and body shop that does re-coating will be familiar with this product. If more information on the product is needed, call our 800 number or e-mail us and we will be happy to help. Remember, it is better to seek out a tradesman familiar with the process and this product or similar products, to get the best result. Re-gelcoating will last longer than a typical paint and is therefore a better choice.

#3.) If you can not pull the fiber away from the gelcoat, then you have a different situation called printing or imprinting. The situation happens when the fiber is thick enough to make an impression on the surface during the lay-up phase of production. This kind of thing does happen though it is an irregularity. The fix is a simple one that requires more time and effort than money. What you will need to do is a process called Blocking and Color Sanding. It requires Wet & Dry Sandpaper and a sanding block with a padded backing. Please use the suggestions found in section # 1. Here again, it would be a good idea to stress that you may want to consult a good body shop and obtain their input on exactly how to proceed.

Under no circumstance should the above information be taken as definitive cause and solution. If you are not sure about what your specific problems are, please do not hesitate to consult a professional detailer or paint and body shop. Also, get references before you pay for any service or repair.

Paint Chip Repair

Have a small scratch or chip in your vehicles paint?
Scratches, stone chips and other types of small paint damage are a common annoyance for owners of new or expensive cars.How many times have you seen a vehicle where the bumper is scuffed or has some type of paint damage?

In the past, small damage that occurred to your car was often more trouble to repair than it was worth. Most car owners were not willing to pay the cost or take the time required by body shops.

Our Ding King™ SMART Paint Repair Systems allows us to offer fast, dependable repairs at a reasonable cost. Our innovative system allows us to make small repairs without the need to clear coat an entire panel.
Can Bubbles Color-match the paint on my vehicle?
Absolutely! With our Color Match Software, we have direct access to Glasurit's entire mixing formula database. By entering date into relevent fields of the clearly structured user interface the mixing formula will appear on the screen with the blink of an eye.

The database contains over 200,000 mixing formulas, giving us access to more than 100,000 colors. It even provides variants of the requested color for badly oxidized or aging paint.

Our Color Match Software is updated four times a year.
Is Paint Chip Repair time consuming?
The Ding King's SMART Repair Systems make it extremely convenient for us to repair minor paint damage. In fact, we'll be able to complete most repairs in less than 2 hours, start to finish.
Is Paint Chip Repair Expensive?
Our paint technology from BASF uses a unique "spot blender" which makes it possible to blend the paint in the area surrounding the damage without having to refinish the entire panel. That means less time and material is needed to repair the small damage—and it means we can charge your customers less than what traditional body shops would charge.
Is Paint Chip Repair Guaranteed?
In addition to saving you time and money, we are able to back all of our repair work by the Glasurit Lifetime Warranty, which is backed by both The Ding King and BASF, one of the world's largest and most respected chemical companies. This certification, combined with the world's finest automotive paint, assures you of a quality of our repair system that will deliver a quality finish that is quick, affordable and permanent—and covered by a Lifetime Guarantee.

Paint Damage & Repair

What is Paint Bleeding?
Bleeding is the staining or seeping through of a soluble dye from the substrate through the top coat colour. Bleeding is normally observed as spots or patches of discoloration in the top coat, (often in red or yellow colours).
Bleeding has several causes:

1. Dissolution in solvent of reapir materials of soluble pigments or dues from old paintwork.
2. Excessive peroxide due to reaction between polyester filler and pigments in repair materisls. Here a yellow-brown stain mark is often present. Blue and green colours are particular vulnerable this problem.
3. Residues from Bitumen or Tar.

Along with the various causes, there are various ways to protect your paint against them:

1. A solvent test will help detect any soluble dye.
2. Use of recommended quantity of peroxide hardener when mixing polyester products and mixing the hardener in evenly and thoroughly. Do not allow coloured hardener to look streaky in the filler when applied.
3. Thoroughly remove any contamination before painting.
How do I repair bleeding?
To repair a bleed-through area, the whole area should be isolated with an appropriate sealer. If the bleed through is severe then the paint layers should be removed back to a sound substrate and then refinished with the correct primer and top-coat process.


Paintless Dent Removal (PDR)

What is Paintless Dent Removal (PDR)?
Paintless Dent Removal, also known as PDR, is now the preferred method for repairing door panel dings, dents and hail damage.
Who uses PDR?
PDR is used by car dealers, rental car compainies, insurance companies, and many auto auctions. It's said that less than 20% of the general public is aware that dents can be removed without painting. However, PDR is working its way into mainstream detail works for the use of the general public.
History of PDR
Mercedes Benz in Stuttgart Germany began using PDR (Paintless Dent Removal) on assembly lines in the 1940's. These assembly lines utilized PDR to repair small dings created during the manufacturing process. "Ding men" used special tools to massage the dents by working the metal from the inside out.

PDR expanded to the Midwest United States in the 1980's. An Argentinean body man began to use PDR to avoid having to fill and paint dings and dents with traditional methods.
PDR Today
Today, the PDR industry is recognized by all major insurance companies and auto dealerships as the preferred method of repair for dings, dents and hail.

How does PDR work?
Specially designed tools are used to remove dents and dings from automobile sheet metal. Along with these special tools, the "art" itself involved in becoming a professional is key. DKTI (Dent King Technical Institute) Dent Repair Programs are State Certified.

To begin, you must decide how to access the dent in order to repair the damage. For a door ding in the middle of the door, you would:

1. Roll down the window
2. Place a wedge; which allows room for a tool to access the inside skin of the metal.
3. Slide  in a Window Protector; to protect the glass from being scratched by the tool.
4. Delicately position a specially designed dent repair tool inside the panel.
5. Massage the dent from the 'inside-out" until it disappears.